there is a love of wild nature in everybody
This incredible year of wild growth started with an exciting and terrifying move to the mouth-watering heart-thumping city of Palermo. I settled into a gorgeous sun-drenched apartment nestled right above the city's famous Ballarò outdoor market. It's an absolute dream come true for any chef! By springtime, I was spending afternoons trekking on the magical volcanic island of Pantelleria and then headed back to New York for a summer working retreat in the middle of the forest surrounded by bear, deer and trout in the Beaverkill Valley. As my career in Sicily continues to shift from private cheffing into more of a food/wine tourism focus, I am happy to morph from a one-woman-show into a collaborator who gets to work on projects with inspiring female colleagues like Casa Mia in Rome, my mentor/sister Fabrizia Lanza, and sommelier Melissa DiGiovanna.
Along those lines, as I swiftly think ahead into autumn, I invite you to join our second Life in Sicily adventure. I've partnered with two other female entrepreneurs to host a 5-day food and wine experience focused on the italian olive harvest. We will picnic with contadini and follow the harvest from the orchard to the oil mill and right into the kitchen. Come sip wine and amaro, take a few short road trips, visit a cheesemaker, and spend the week living like a local with us in the beautiful village of Sambuca di Sicilia.
Life in Sicily: October 17-21, 2018
Full itinerary + booking details are available on my website.
Contact our organizer Amie Ruditz for more information and to book your spot.
amie@montecastelli.com
WELLNESS MERCANTILE: the warmth of sharing meals
The Warmth of Sharing Meals
words + recipe by Linda Sarrisimages by Katie June Burton @katiefresca
I started working in the culinary world when I turned 25. Leaving an office job and transitioning into something that really made me happy was a big leap. Two things that I am discovering in my growth as an entrepreneur are that you need to take care of yourself and you need to foster relationships that strengthen you. Freelancers get caught up in the hustle (especially in New York City) oh too often. We have to hunt, search, and scrap for jobs. Every day is different but that is what makes it terrifyingly exciting.
Taking care of yourself could mean a balance of eating well, exercising, positivity and self love. Being my own best cheerleader, even when I think I'm bullshitting it, just keeps me moving forward. Surrounding yourself with strong people who lift you up is the second part; whether it's a mentor, a lover, a partner, a client or a friend -- we can't do it on our own. After cooking school, I was lucky to receive a scholarship that sent me to Sicily and into the hands of my mentor, Fabrizia. But it's no longer luck that keeps the adventure alive, it's the choices I'm making that allow me to build relationships, continue learning and growing.
While traveling in Sicily this fall, I had an opportunity to work the olive harvest in a town called Sambuca di Sicilia. What comforted my heart while being away from home was of course the satisfaction of eating local and seasonally but also the combination of warm Sicilian sun and even warmer people. Whether I was sitting on the ground in the shade of an olive tree splitting a panino and some pomegranates with a farmer or cooking together with friends sharing the meal with their family of perfect little loud Italian children in the comfort of their homes, eating together is a ritual that I love more than any other.
Most of the time, I'm the one in the kitchen but sharing meals or cooking together is the best way to comfort yourself, thank friends, cheer them up or celebrate! I usually save it for date number three with new guys. Risotto is something I make when I need to wash away the winter blues. I can whip it up with items from the pantry and it's always a crowd pleaser. The recipe is simple but requires focus. You need to dedicate your time and cannot be distracted with other things. In this vegetarian recipe, I use broccoli rabe paired with a new harvest Italian extra virgin olive oil and some stinky strong cheese on top. I like to add a squeeze of lemon juice at the end to brighten it up. The balance of bitter greens with high-quality oil and salty cheese are guaranteed to warm your belly.
Linda Sarris is a private chef who splits her time between Brooklyn and Italy. She finds inspiration from her badass female CEO clients and cooking mentors abroad. Linda travels often for research and work-study programs including an upcoming Sicilian food/wine tour with guests from May 6-12. Follow her culinary storytelling through instagram @thecheekychef and lindasarris.com.
RECIPE: Broccoli Rabe Risotto
serves 3
- 1c. arborio or carnaroli rice
- 1 small red onion, finely diced
- 4T extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2c. white wine
- 3c. vegetable stock
- 2 bunches of broccoli rabe, 6c. of trimmed sprigs
- 3T unsalted butter
- 1/2c. parmigiano reggiano cheese, grated
- sea salt and flakey finishing salt
- black pepper
- lemon
- funky cheese like pecorino, taleggio or an earthy castelrosso to finish the dish
Trim tough stems from the broccoli rabe and remove large outer leaves. Add the florets to a pot of heavily salted boiling water, cooking until bright green and softened. Blanch in ice water to stop the cooking, drain and set aside. In a wide flat-bottomed pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil on medium. Add the onion, cooking until softened and translucent. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable stock in a separate pot and grab a ladle. Add all of the rice to your risotto pan and stir to coat with the oil and onions. Toast for a few minutes then add the white wine to deglaze the pan. Sti continuously with a wooden spoon so the rice doesn't stick to the bottom, allow the wine to absorb a little bit into rice and burn off the rest.
Start adding 1 ladle of broth at a time until fully absorbed. Lower the heat to just simmering and always keep stirring. The whole process should take about 20 minutes. Cook to your desired doneness; the rice should stick to your teeth (al dente) but not feel too crunchy. Stir in the broccoli rabe for a few minutes just before the rice finishes cooking. Turn off the heat and finish with butter and grated cheese for the "mantecatura" step. Season with sea salt and black pepper to taste. The butter and cheese will melt and make the risotto creamy. Finish with a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil, flakey sea salt and a few bits of funky cheese.
Cheeky's Risotto Notes:
- Measure 1 espresso cup of dry risotto rice per person. It's the perfect amount.
- Chop your onions smaller than the size of the rice.
- Wine, olive oil and salt are very important. Don't skimp on quality.
- Serve right away; both risotto and pasta waits for nobody.
westside white wine + the lonely perricone
Finally, southern Italian wine is on the up-and-up internationally! We are starting to see little sparkles of Sicilian nero d'avola or frappato wines popping up on restaurant lists among the occasional Primitivo from Puglia or a Greco di Tufo from Campania/Calabria. However, getting southern Italian people to drink southern Italian wines is another great feat - to be conquered at another time and by another guy (read as Silvestro Silvestori's new wine program cheekily called "TERRONIA").
After living for one year on the largest family-owned wine estate in Sicily, I thought I had a good start to learning about Sicilian wines. Here we are four years after my first visit to Palermo and those bright virgin sips of catarratto. Working with Fabrizia Lanza at Case Vecchie, we served the cooking school guests a wine for aperitivo, two or three wines with dinner and sometimes a dessert wine or homemade liqueur after the meal. I tasted my way through every single label of those Tasca d'Almerita wines at Regaleali -- but still, so much more to learn.
Along comes my friend Silve: a handsome smart guy from Puglia who is a certified sommelier, a Southern Italian wine expert and freelance writer for Wine & Spirits magazine. "Wanna go on a cycling trip around Puglia to visit wineries for a couple of weeks?" After convincing him to move the trip to Sicilia, this cheeky chick was on board.
Here's a little wine update from the #CHEEKYbici trip. I am no expert so I'll generalize and break it up this way: There are incredible white grapes growing on the west side of Sicily and killer reds on the eastern side (with bits of overlap, of course). There are certainly great reds that grow all over the island and vice versa with the white grapes. Sicily also has a history of growing international varietals (chardonnay, cabernet, merlot, syrah, etc.) in many different parts of the island, and a few drag-queens, as I'll call them, like perricone (red grape on the west side) and carricante (a white grape from the east) who dare to be different because of their complexity.
WESTCOAST SICILIAN VARIETALS:
catarratto | grapes produce a golden-colored wine + they are planted all around the island. this is the most common white grape used for marsala wine.
grillo | a true westcoaster grown in Marsala, Palermo, Trapani and Agrigento. grillo wines have a deep yellow color and they can actually age fairly well.
inzolia | also known as "ansonica", can be used in making marsala. inzolia has a greenish hue with a very strong herbal aroma.
zibibbo | also known as "moscato di Pantelleria", brought to Sicily by the Romans, these are grown mainly on the island of Pantelleria where the grapes are dried and made into a dessert wine called passito.
pericone | a.k.a. pignatello is the most planted grape in all of western Sicily, perricone is found mostly in the regions of Palermo, Trapani and Agrigento. these special wines have a medium body and red candy cherry flavor like cocacola and they are best if you drink them while the wine is still young...this is not an ager.
CHEEKY'S PICKS FOR SICILY'S WESTCOAST VINO BIANCO:
Bosco Falconeria, Catarratto IGT from Alcamo
Tasca d'Almerita, Grillo Cavallo delle Fate, Sicilia DOC
Cantine Barbera, Dietro le Case, Inzolia Menfi DOC
Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria DOP
Menfi with Marilena Barbera
On the #CHEEKYbici cycling trip through Sicily, our next stop was a visit to Marilena Barbera in Menfi. She is a winemaker that Silvestro was excited to finally meet after many trips back and forth missing one another. We never knew when or where the cycling trip would lead us which made planning winery visits, hotel bookings and restaurant ressies a bit difficult. Sometimes coastal winds, torrential rain, hangovers would keep us from making it from point A to point B in the time we expected. In the main piazza of Menfi, we asked a young guy where we might find a hotel for the night. This guy randomly had a pamphlet for a chic hotel (not what you typically find in rural Sicily) but after a few calls around to B&B's we opted to go for the fancy place. We biked completely uphill for 45 minutes or so to finally arrive at the hotel. It was a brand new place with great rooms and even a pool! After the crazy bike ride to find the hotel, we decided that it would be impossible to walk to town for dinner and biking after dark was out of question. Take out from seamless.com is not an option here in Sicilia. With the help of the concierge, we found a pizzeria in Menfi that was kindly willing to deliver food to us via Vespa up to the hotel. With a few bottles of wine and pizza in the room, we were happy and nobody was complaining. The next day was our visit to Marilena's winery!
We arrived at Cantine Barbera with our bicycles, just a quick trip from the town this time. Marilena Barbera is a bombshell gorgeous smiley woman with strawberry hair, not what you might expect from a Sicilian. That's the beauty of this island! The people, the food, the culture is all a wonderful mix. Marilena and her mother, Nina, gave us a tour of the winery and showed us the small bottling facility, the cellar and took us to the tasting room to try a few of her delicious wines. We tasted two inzolia white wines from Menfi and two red blends.
At Cantine Barbera, they are located so close to the sea on the southwest of the island so you can actually taste the salinity in the wine. The beauty of this location is that the vineyards can benefit from warm dry summer weather, a coastal breeze, and a mild winter season. Marilena is the third generation of her family making wine here; her grandfather started planting in the 1920's. She plants Sicilian white varietals like inzolia, catarratto and grillo plus reds like perricone, nerello mascalese and nero d'avola. Marilena is very good at marketing internationally and travels abroad often to wine fairs and to meet buyers, restaurateurs and customers. Her social media presence is well beyond many other Sicilian wineries especially with the small size of her production. In NYC, the imported T.Edwards carries most of her wines here in the States. She will be coming to the States sometime this year and hopefully collaborating on a dinner with me!
CANTINE BARBERA | viticultori in Menfi
Azienda Agricola Barbera, Contrada Torrenova S.P. 79, 92013 Menfi (Agrigento) Italia
Tel. +39.0925.570442 | Marilena Barbera | info@cantinebarbera.it | http://www.cantinebarbera.it
Linda fends off pervy shepherds while Silvestro feels the wind in his hair: Marsala + Mazara del Vallo
The core muscle-building biking days of the CHEEKYbici Sicilian bicycle trip were along the route to Menfi. I call these the "Kardashian-booty-training days". We were riding up to 70km per day from Trapani through Marsala to Mazara del Vallo on the first day and Mazara, Campobello di Mazara, Castelvetrano to Menfi on the next. This was pretty much the same route on the way back as well. We started along a country road near the salt pans that line the coast from Trapani to Marsala, stopping to take photos and change flat tires (Silvestro's, not mine). At the halfway point, we took a break for a quick lunch in the main piazza of Marsala and shared salami sandwiches, a container of buttery green olives and a bag of sesame cookies called biscotti regina before taking a little cat nap in the sun. It was Palm Sunday when we first stopped in Marsala so there were little kids learning how to braid palms to sell in front of the church.
From Marsala, the next stop was Mazara del Vallo a main port city on the southwest edge of Sicily. We rode into Mazara del Vallo over a long high bridge just as the sun was setting; wind blowing in our hair (well, not Silvestro's), sun on our faces, with a feeling of peace and complete open mind and heart. Of all of the breathtaking views on the trip, all of the rolling green hills covered in tiny white and yellow wild flowers, all of the baroque cities built like little wooden carvings into a mountainside...the moment we rode over that bridge into Mazara will still be one of our shared favorites of the trip.
After a night in a rented apartment (in let's call it the shadiest of our hotel choices), we said arrivederci to Julio (a made-up name that I gave him) the skeevy groundskeeper, and took off verso Menfi to finally hit some vineyards! As we rode along the sleepy flat roads through Campobello di Mazara and Castelvetrano, we stopped to take photos of a sweet contadino (farmer) named Vincenzo pruning his grape vines and a shepherd with a flock of sheep and a flock of dogs to match. Silvestro's pro-tip is always stop and talk to people. There was a great encounter with Vincenzo as he showed us how he dry prunes and twists the branches along wires to train them to grow how he wants. On the other hand, my girly intuition to stop and take photos of the fat old shepherd and his fluffy white sheep was quickly put in check by Silvestro's warning to "stai attento" because these lone shepherds are stereotypically the horniest guys we'll meet on the road. Sicilians will take one finger and pull it down under your eye as a sign to be careful and keep an eye out. That's pretty much the vibe I got but I wasn't afraid of an old pervy shepherd; he couldn't catch us on the bikes anyway.
Here's some photos from the west side of the island and a quick video of Vincenzo explaining his pruning process on the Catarratto Lucido vines.
visiting my sicilian olive oil producer
Back in New York City, I have a collaborative partnership with the italian import company Gustiamo. I first met Danielle Aquino (the newest part-owner) while we both were working in Sicily. After graduating with a masters from Bocconi in Milan, Danielle moved back to the U.S. to join Gustiamo full-time. Now, I have started using more and more Gustiamo-imported products in my private chef and catering work. Besides the perfectly plump capers packed in salt from Pantelleria, my favorite go-to product is the Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Tenuta Pianogrillo near Ragusa in Sicily.
Lorenzo Piccione di Pianogrillo, the owner of Tenuta Pianogrillo, is a true "renaissance man." He is simply dolcissimo and completely impressive in his wide variety of talents. Lorenzo is an artist, a concert pianist, a farmer, a winemaker, and most importantly - an incredible olive oil producer. He is very savvy with social media (follow on instagram @pianogrillo_farm) so I felt like I've known him for awhile before actually visiting the farm. I sent my friend Anna Watson Carl (The Yellow Table cookbook author and contributor to Saveur.com) with a little checklist of things to do and people to meet in Sicily when she went for the first time in January... a Palermo Street Food Tour with Salvo Agusta, winery visit to Arianna Occhipinti, Modica chocolate shop to meet Pierpaolo Ruta at BonAjuto, and a trip to Chiaramonte Gulfi to see the Pianogrillo olive orchard.
When I was joining Silvestro Silvestori on this #CHEEKYbici bicycle trip through Sicily, he had just a few requests in the planning: if I wanted to visit any Sicilian ex boyfriends or try to track down long lost family members, I needed to take a few days and do that on my own. The agreement was this: my family is 100% Greek-American so we're all good there and if we plan to avoid Palermo and a few small villages surrounding Regaleali, we would have no trouble with i fidanzati siciliani. As we planned part of our trip around discovering the delicious DOCG Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines near Ragusa, I booked us an afternoon with Lorenzo at Pianogrillo!
Following the perfectly positioned street signs directing us towards Contrada Pianogrillo (yes, this sounds completely unbelievable In Sicily) we were greeted with open arms by Lorenzo Piccione; a tall, happy, salt-and-peppery bearded man wearing knee high riding boots. What a sight! After a few long exhausting bicycle trips around Ragusa, we were so happy to pack up the car, visit Lorenzo, then head north towards Mt. Etna for the rest of the trip.
At Pianogrillo, they are situated near the Iblei mountain range which is where the name for the olives comes from. The olives that are used for the Sicilian extra virgin olive oil that Gustiamo imports into the US are 100% tonda iblea - a special bright green, round olive that can be pressed for oil and also "da salare" to preserve and eat!
The property at Pianogrillo has a 30-hectare orchard of bio olive trees, and another 30 for grapes, citrus trees, gorgeous stables for horses and animals like the suino nero black pigs, little rabbits, chickens + goats. The new addition is the farm-chic cantina for winemaking. We tasted Curva Minore (a frapatto and nero d'avola blend) right from the barrels in the cantina and had a nice snack of salame, pane ragusano and a bottle of Grillo in Lorenzo's kitchen.
Silvestro, a true Pugliese olive oil snob, even purchased two cases of oil to bring back home. He loves the bitter boom-boom-pow that you get with oil from Puglia but was happy to try out the grassy buttery tonda iblea oil and even bring some mini cans back as gifts for his staff. Lorenzo packed us up with wine, estratto di pomodoro, salsa pronta made with cherry tomatoes, loads of olive oil and even two of his homemade black pork salami to smuggle back through customs.
It was such a special visit with Lorenzo Piccione at Pianogrillo in Chiaramonte Gulfi. Not every private chef has a chance to meet the people who make their ingredients or actually visit the small farms or vineyards where they are grown. I'm so lucky to be a Chef in a place like New York where there are companies like Gustiamo to help source these great international products for me. If I can't have a hotel with a garden near the sea in Sicily just yet, I'll stick with my importer to bring all the good italian stuff right to my front door in Brooklyn.
Azienda Agricola di Pianogrillo, Chiaramonte Gulfi (Ragusa), Sicily | www.pianogrillo.it
buy it from www.gustiamo.com | discount code: cheekychef